off to oamaru.
When we first told people we were heading for Oamaru during our holiday we received a lot of unsolicited advice recommending we explore the West coast instead. Boy, those people don't know what they are missing by passing this awesome little town.
We visited over New Years so quite a few shops and attractions were either closed or running on odd schedules, but we still found heaps to during our three days in town.
The main draw of this town is the Victorian Precinct which is home to bookbinders, bakers, artists, and unique op shops. Oamaru wants to be seen as a Victorian town at work and actively encourages these types of businesses to settle within it's borders.
The Victorian Precinct is off of the main drag and looks quite small at first glance, but nearly all the buildings house a labyrinth of shops and oddities to delight and amuse. It is incredibly easy to enter a shop and emerge out the other side a whole hour later. Even if you aren't interested in the wares, the shop-keeps are friendly enough to keep you talking for ages. Never fear if an item does catch your fancy, but exceeds luggage weight restrictions, many of the shops offer affordable shipping worldwide.
Some stores are only open on Sundays, at which time there is also a farmers market, so it is best to plan your visit so you are around on a weekend. There is an amazing looking steampunk shop in the top level of the Wool Store complex, but alas, it doesn't open during the week so we could only look longingly through the windows.
Some shops not to be missed are Donna Demente's Grain Store Gallery, Adventure Books, Jessie Roberts' Store (an old fashioned candy shop), Lazy Cat Pottery for fudge and used books (also, pottery), Always Christmas, and Slightly Foxed books.
For things you can look at, but can't touch, there is the North Otago Museum and Forrester Art Gallery. We ran out of time to visit both these places, but admission is free so what do you have to loose? If you have a few extra minutes to spare, stop by Oamaru Heritage Radio to see their small collection of vintage electronics and watch the Heritage Radio Trust's DJs at work.
| Organ at Steampunk HQ |
For things you can look at and touch, for a price, try Steampunk HQ. For $10/person you get access to a bold and bizarre collaborative art gallery. Though it says steampunk on the tin, many of the pieces feel like they were ripped from the dystopian future of cyberpunk. Many of the pieces allow for interaction, there are buttons to press, keys to play, and bulls to take photos with.
Once you're done exploring, stop off in the Star and Garter for affordable meals. They were open even on New Years Day when very few restaurants were. Like with most of New Zealand, vegetarian options are limited so start looking at menus before you get hungry. Many restaurants shut down in between lunch and dinner. You'll also be hard pressed to find any shop or restaurant open after 10, so be prepared!
If you're seeking comfy accommodations look no further than Oamaru Creek Bed and Breakfast. (We stayed in Nullaboor) Lynda and Paul are gracious hosts and their mansion is filled with all the comforts of home wrapped in Victorian style. Every morning they make hot breakfast to order with eggs from their own chickens and many of the herbs straight from the garden. Even the coffee comes custom made.
| Bedroom, complete with loveseat |
On property is Chloe, a retired seeing eye dog with just as much of a welcoming demeanour as her owners. There is also a slightly more aloof cat and two chickens. Staying at Oamaru Creek feels less like an establishment and more like sleeping over at a dear friend's house. Our final night we invited our hosts to play Pirate Flux with us and they kept us up well past midnight! They are a great couple who love entertaining.
The hospitality doesn't end at the doorstep, the shop keepers are incredibly kind and always keen to have a chat. We spent just as much time getting to know the locals as we did exploring the town. Everyone seems to genuinely love Oamaru and it is a true community. Often we would see shop keepers popping in to other establishments to wish each other a happy new year and everyone had recommendations on which shops we had to visit next. There are no Renaissance festivals in New Zealand, but the artistic community surrounding Oamaru feels an awful like one. Other artists pop in from time to time. Whether to collaborate on the behemoth steel doomsday machine at Steampunk HQ, play a gig down at the Penguin Club, or offer a low-key affair at the Grainstore Gallery. If you like art, history, good company, and a bit of the bizarre Oamaru is not to be beat.
A Note For Holiday Travelers:
Many kiwis take time off from mid-December to mid-January, to go abroad or camping. This is great because many cities are fairly empty, but terrible because shops may be closed or running at odd hours. Christmas and New Years are both public holidays in which you can expect nearly everything to be shut so plan accordingly.